Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Northern Scotland after Orkney

It was a very pleasant and uneventful crossing on the ferry from Stromness, Orkney, on Tuesday 5 August with Thurso rising from the sea it appears.

The sign says it all.  We stopped long enough for a coffee then headed west along the northern coastal road.

It is not long before the more intensively farmed fields give way to rocky and hard looking hillsides. It is fenced and sheep graze the varied vegetation.
A pony and his bigger cobber seek out the choice grasses near this shed as we head inland, southward along the Strathnaver, after leaving the A836 coastal highway near Bettyhill.
The countryside varies considerably from hay paddocks for sheep and cattle farms to extensive grazing see in the background and below.


 Exotic forestry is intermingled with the other utilization.

This clear stream wends its way north to the coast from upland lochs and wetlands.

Mature plantation forest that has been harvested.

An example of natural landscape adjacent to an exotic forest.  It is also in the vicinity of the former village of Grummore, beside Loch Naver, where together with Grumberg there had been 32 tenant families reduced to 15 in the first round of clearances in 1813.  At the final removal in 1819 sixteen buildings were burned.  An information board gave details with a plan but we did not further investigate.

This scene illustrates the variance of countryside as we travel from Strathnaver to Strath Vagastie and past Loch Naver.
The Northwest Highlands just west of the route we traveled went through the clearances of the Highlands when crofters tenancies were terminated to make way for extensive sheep farming.  There is also earlier history evidenced by the remains of circular buildings, or perhaps this one only a stock enclosure being on a hillside.

Remnants of towers are to be found dating back to the period 1000BC - 1000AD.
 The day ended just east of Inverness where we had booked into a B&B in the Nairn Valley.  It was an opportunity to take a closer look at this railway viaduct which spans the valley.
 It is a huge structure and to us an amazing engineering feat.

Not only high but on a curve and still in regular use.
 Pasture land in the valley beside the viaduct.
A view through the portals make power pylons not far away look small.

Next day, 6 August, was the start of the Black Isle agricultural show, the horse only day. It was a chance for all the local horse people to bring along their mounts.  In other respects not too different to rural country show in NZ.
The last spruce up after saddles were removed for the judge to inspect.

The trade stands much the same as NZ, with some NZ products such as Prattley yards were being set up with...

...usual specials.

 It was then westward via "The Great Glen" (Glen Albyn and Glen More) the location of Loch Ness and Loch Linnhe, staying over for two nights in a B&B at Invergarry between the two Lochs.
Near Fort William calling at "The Witches Trails" a world mountain bike championship course.

Now used by bikers of all abilities using the the route suited to them.

The monument set up to commemorate the championships.
 A few pictures of local scenery about Invergarry said to have hidden Bonnie Prince Charlie.

 Looking down to the road from the falls.
 Loch Garry in the Glen Garry.

A grove of some very spectacular specimen trees nearby.
A typical countryside view.
The Special Forces Commando monument at Spean Bridge. The training ground for the newly established Commando unit in WW2.
It is possible to travel by small boat (and some not so small) from the east coast Moray Firth at Inverness, to the Firth of Lorn via the Lochs of the Great Glen and the interlinking Caledonian canal.  This requires the use of a series of locks as seen here.  Draw bridges across roads allow these yachts to pass. 
 A stone bridge, not now used for the nearby road, erected as part of General Wade's Military Road along the south east shores of Loch Ness.
 Some creative chainsaw art near the above bridge.

Looking up Loch Ness from near Dores.
 A Highland ewe and lamb in very good condition.  they appear very suitable sheep doing well under poor type pasture & heather.

A general view of the countryside on the glen.
A homestead & hunting lodge in a remote valley.
 Some of the lodge neigbours.
The small loch nearby.  There was no road access beyond this point.
 The vista across from the photo above.


was this lady really a shepherd with her dog or just out for a walk along the stream.

However the sheep duly moved sedately single file toward a new location.
 Another boat heading to another lock.
Now sailing through and the road bridge can be seen on the left swung out of the way of the mast.  Traffic waited the few minutes while the boat passed.  There were no barriers on the road but may have been a simple sign.

The historic Laggan swing bridge still available for pedestrian use at the lower end of Loch Oich, a small loch together with Loch Lochy between Loch Ness and Loch Linnhe.  These two loch's together with the Caledonian Canal enable the passage of the boats.

Leaving the Invergarry we headed northwest beside Loch Garry and Loch Cluanie on our way to the Isle of Skye.  A little mist along the hills added to the effect of the reflections on the lochs.

Loch Cluanie was clear and calm with...
... Glen Cluanie visible across the loch.

The quaint Cluanie Inn at the western end of the loch.
 As we traversed the Glen Shiel it revealed its own interesting snippets.  Here another well preserved round stone remnants which looked similar to those further north and strongly indicated it was the base of a dwelling but no other information was available.

Nearby timber reveled in the bog that had been eroded.  Had there at one time been natural forest here. Nowadays there is plantation forest in the glen.
Who invented what is known in New Zealand as "The Hayes" or "Simplex" permanent fence wire strainer.  These were seen on the fence near the road.

 Wild life along the shoreline of Loch Duich.

Eilean Donan Castle at the western end of the loch.

Next a week on the Isle of Skye, from Saturday 9 August, before a rather circuitous route back to Inverness and down the Aberdeen.