Churchill, Manitoba, Canada: 22-31 October 2010

Churchill on Hudson Bay today seems ot be better known as the congregating place for Polar Bears waiting for the bay to freeze up in mid-November rather than its recent importance as a grain export port.  The rail link from the grain growing province of Saskatchewan to Churchill was built to export grain out of the Hudson bay to Europe as an alternative to the longer and more tedious route through the Great Lakes.  Freight still dominats the route and passenger services three times a week take second place.  There is no road to Churchill.

The train operated by VIA Rail standing at Churchill station.  It seems to consistently run late, but that seems part of the novelty.  It takes 17-18 hours between Thompson and Churchill and can be anything up to 3 hours late at any stage.  Various stops and very slow travel due to track maintenance or track unevenness due to permafrost melt or freeze up, so the train is constantly changing speed.

A cabin on the train is a good option and was very worthwhile.  Although built in the 1950's the design is very good and very well built.  Everything worked including toilet, washbasin and rollout bed allready made up.  A shared shower was located at the end of the carriage.

One way we had a double berth cabin which had a slightly different configuration.

Seating and visibility was also good from single berth cabins.

The luxary stopped at Churchill.  Trundling the suitcase along the cobbled sidewalk to our accommodation which was clean and warm but the beds had seen better days.

The easiest way for a look around was to walk although guided bus tours were available.

But don't venture out onto the beachfront rocks as a bear may just be using the same space.

Ships seen in the background are grain carriers waiting to berth.  Don Gould, owner of the B&B, was also the tug captain.

This is the only Polar Bear that was safe enough to be photographed beside.

The grain elevators with the railway wagons discharging one side and ships loading the other side.  There are also fuel tanks nearby.

A chance to take a rest near the sea front.

Some things do grow in the cold climate but very slowly.

A general view along the Hudson Bay fronting the town.  The glacier weathered rocks are not a place to walk due to the possibility of bears. A few were chased away during the week we were there.

The ultimate 4WD for snow and ice,  said to cost over C$50,000, plus the vehicle cost.

Kath had to just keep walking!

There are two activities most travellers do in Churchill. Polar Bear viewing and dog sledding. Several Mushers provide sled rides.  Bluesky also have an excellent B&B and provide great sled rides.

Bluesky dog sleding couple Gerald and Jenafor Azure.  The ultimate hosts.

All rugged up about to go on the buggy with Gerald Azure, one of the owners, and his dogs.

Coffee, one of the sled dogs that Kath wanted to bring home.  The dogs are all various breeds corssed with Huskie, that they obtain, often from racing sources.

No, I am not one eyed, just bi-coloured.

A litter of puppies at the kennels that belonged to Gerald's brother.

A few days later after the snow storm we were able to sled on the snow which was much better than the cart.  We changed places half way around and Kath was a good musher.

Here is Kath with her team of dogs.  The ice on the road was a bit harder for the dogs and more snow is really needed.

A good ride was had by all.

Our dog sleding host, Gerald Azure, trying out a new coat he had just purchased.

The Eskimo Museum had an excellent display of artifacts very well presented.  A warm place to be during a snow storm.  Here a replica of a seal skin canoe.

Parks Canada had an excellent set up in the park headquarters at the railway station.  Wapusk N P is a relatively new park just south of Churchill.

It is the best place to see bears in a den!!  Very good displays.

Later in the week a snow storm changed the townscape.

The wind with it blew snow into any gaps.  This is inside the entrance to Gypsies Bakery, the source of good locally baked food.  It was the place that Polar Bear B&B provided breakfast so was a good chance to see locals coming and going having breakfast or picking up a lunch box.

Inside looking out.  The town just carried on as loaders and  graders cleared the streets.

Lunch fare at Gypsies all baked on the premises.  They also did dinner in the evenings.

Each building develped its own sculptures as in this doorway.

Also over vehicles.

Some played...

... while others got a surprise along the route they had used several times before.

While home owners had to get to their front door.

A post card scene.

Even the dogs are a bit constrained.

Skidoos will soon need to be dug out and put to use.  An occassional one was in use but there was generally not a consistent snow cover.

The cemetary looked stark and errie on a wind swept ridge.

We close our visit to the frozen north and its quickly reducing winter daylight.  The freeze up is not far off so we leave the bears to hunt seals as soon as it comes.
See the Polar Bear Special blog below.

Polar Bears 27 October 2010

Churchill, Manitoba, Canada was Polar Bears day for our trip.  The weather was overcast with a strong cold wind and occassional light rain.  It must have been a good day for bears as we saw 22 different bears, the guides record for this season.  We were picked up in Churchill at 7.45am and transported by an old bus to The Great White Bear tour company depot on the open tundra type terraine approximately 20 minutes from the town.  There we transferred to a tundra buggy which is a heavy duty 4 or 6 multi wheel drive specialised bus body vehicle on huge balloon tyres.  At the rear was a viewing platform and to embark, the vehicle was backed up to a loading bank and passengers walked on the level through the viewing platform into the heated area fitted out with bus seats. A very suitable machine for the task. It was not long before the first bears were sighted as follows.

Distant mother and twin cubs sleeping in the shelter of White Spruce.

It was not long before they senced concern and aroused but not from our presence.

Danger from a large male bear was lurking nearby.

They moved off then a while later were seen again resting by another lagoon,  but still looking a bit anxious.

So they should be anxious for this fellow is seen approaching their position testing out the strength of the ice for a short cut.

The ice must have been a bit thin and he decides on the long way around through some willow scrub.

A quick instruction to the cubs and the mother and cubs were off.

Showing only bare paws to the large male.

A quick look around where the mother and cubs had been the bear prepares to leave the scene.

Then with a large yawn he marches off in the direction he had come from.

Mother and cubs then stop for a spell and consider their next move all the time keeping a sharp look out for they had been disturbed by two different male bears in the last hour.

Deciding it was safe again they settle for another rest.  Note this is a time when there is very little food about and they are gathering for the Hudson bay to freeze over so they can go out on the ice and hunt the Ringed Seal to restore body weight.

There was not much other wildlife about, with most departing for better wintering grounds.  This Snow Ptarmigan was one of a small flock seen that follow the edge of the snow.